Spinalonga

Spinalonga is a small, fortified islet that sits at the mouth of the sheltered Mirabello Bay, just off the eastern coast of Crete near the resort village of Elounda. Despite its modest size, it is one of the most visited and atmospheric historic sites on the island, combining centuries of military history with one of the more poignant chapters of modern Greek social history. The island can only be reached by sea, and its silhouette of weathered stone walls rising straight from the turquoise water is an iconic Cretan image. The Venetians fortified Spinalonga in the late sixteenth century, completing the bastioned fortress around 1579 as part of a wider effort to defend Crete against Ottoman raids and rival sea powers. The defences were formidable, with thick double walls, towers and dozens of cannon positions, and the stronghold held out long after the rest of Crete had fallen. Control eventually passed to the Ottomans in the early eighteenth century, and over time a small Muslim community settled within the walls, leaving behind houses and a network of narrow lanes that still shape the island today. Spinalonga's most famous role came in the twentieth century. From 1903 until 1957 it served as a leper colony, one of the last in Europe, where people diagnosed with Hansen's disease were sent to live in isolation. The first patients arrived in the early years of the century, and after Crete united with Greece sufferers were sent here from across the country. Visitors today can walk among the remains of the patients' dwellings, the church and the communal buildings, gaining a moving sense of the lives once led in enforced separation from the mainland. Walking the island takes around an hour along a looping path that passes the fortifications, the old Ottoman quarter, the leper-colony buildings and viewpoints over the bay. There is little shade, so a hat, water and sturdy shoes are sensible, especially in high summer. The site is generally open daily through the warmer months, and an entrance fee applies in addition to the boat fare. Most visitors reach Spinalonga by boat from the nearby fishing village of Plaka, a crossing of roughly ten minutes, or on longer excursions from Elounda and the town of Agios Nikolaos. The island became far better known internationally after Victoria Hislop's novel The Island, set on Spinalonga, was published in 2005. It suits history lovers, photographers and anyone wanting a half-day trip that pairs striking scenery with a genuinely affecting story.