Preveli Monastery

Preveli Monastery occupies a dramatic perch in the far south of the Rethymno region, set on the slopes above the mouth of the Kourtaliotiko Gorge with commanding views over the Libyan Sea. It lies roughly 35 km south of Rethymno town and a short distance east of the resort village of Plakias, in a rugged, sun-baked landscape of gorges, cliffs and remote coves. The remote setting and sweeping sea panorama make the approach itself part of the experience. The monastery is actually made up of two complexes. The Lower Monastery, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, now lies in ruins beside the river, while the Rear Monastery of Saint John the Theologian, set higher up the hillside, is the working monastery that visitors explore today. There are indications that a monastic community existed here as early as the Byzantine period, around the 10th or 11th century, though the earliest firm dates connected with the site fall in the late 16th century, during Venetian rule. After the Ottomans took Crete in the mid-17th century the monastery suffered destruction, but it was rebuilt and went on to play a notable role in Cretan affairs. Preveli is remembered above all for its monks' involvement in the island's struggles for freedom and education, and for a remarkable episode in the Second World War, when the monastery helped shelter and evacuate Allied soldiers stranded on Crete after the German invasion in 1941. A monument near the site commemorates this chapter, and the monastery's small museum and church display icons, ecclesiastical objects and historical exhibits that bring its long story to life. The monastery is most easily reached by car or scooter along winding mountain roads south from Rethymno, typically passing through or near Plakias. Below the monastery lies the famous Preveli (Palm) Beach, where the river meets the sea among a grove of palm trees; it can be reached by a steep footpath down from a nearby car park or by seasonal boat from Plakias and Agia Galini. Opening hours are seasonal, and modest dress is required inside the grounds. Preveli suits travellers who enjoy combining culture with scenery, those interested in wartime and resistance history, and anyone happy to drive a little further off the beaten track. Pairing the monastery with a swim at the palm-fringed beach below makes for a memorable day in Crete's wild south.